Pandacan: the land of arts and depots (Part 2)

One little-known fact about Pandacan is that it has been dubbed the “Little Italy” and “Little Venice” partly because of its topography being surrounded by a river and esteros or creeks and also because of it being the center of arts and culture especially during the 19th-early 20th century. In fact, Pandacan was known as the cradle of Italian operas in the country as this district was the center of opera and orchestral music performance in and around Manila, and perhaps the country as well.

One of the foremost figures of music based in Pandacan is Ladislao Bonus, who is also known as “the father of the Philippine Opera.” He was able to establish the first Philippine opera company in Pandacan in 1887, was part of the Manila Cathedral and Marikina orchestras among others, and has written musical scores for a number of zarzuelas as well. Today, a memorial to him exists along a street named after one of the first members of his opera company, Teodora San Luis.

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Pandacan: the land of arts and depots (Part 1)

Not many people know this but May 30 this year is an important milestone being celebrated in a certain part of Manila, in a district they call Pandacan. What makes this date this year special is that it marks the 300th anniversary of the foundation of Pandacan. Thus, this series is dedicated to this storied district.

Located along the southern banks of the Pasig River across the districts of San Miguel and Santa Mesa lies the district known to many as Pandacan. Glancing from its name one might think it may have come from the Tagalog root word “pandak” or “short person” thus giving the perception that it may have called as such because the place was inhabited by short people. But the truth is actually farther than that. In fact, originally the place was not called Pandacan but “Pandanan,” a place where the edible pandan trees used to thrive. Somehow its name got corrupted over time and we now get the name we call it today.

Being located along the banks of the river, and considering the early Filipinos in Manila being dependent on the river, it is but natural that one would see a thriving community in what is now Pandacan before the arrival of the Spaniards. But apart from the river, the early Pandacan folk also relied on the rich land as well; farming was also an important source of living. As the nearby Kingdom of Maynilad soon fell to Spanish control, the community of Pandacan followed as well, first as part of the greater community of Sampaloc which was established on the northern banks but eventually became a suburb on its own on May 30, 1712.

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Isabel II: the monument that almost got ditched

Located in an inconspicuous corner at the northeastern end of the Intramuros walls stands this particular monument made of copper (which is why it’s greenish in color) This monument happens to be of one dedicated to one of Spain’s most controversial monarchs, Queen Isabel (or Isabella) II.

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She became a polarizing figure when she assumed the throne of the Spanish monarchy at age 3, as her accession was opposed by those who feel that the crown should be given to a male member of the royal family, even though Isabel was a direct descendant of the late king Ferdinand VII and that the king himself had no male children.

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The Gota de Leche of Sampaloc

If you find yourself somewhere in the middle of Manila’s “University Belt” in Sampaloc disttrict, you may have chanced upon this nicely-preserved American-era building and some fresh patch of green which is a welcome sight in the midst of the area’s frentic activity and some unfortunately-dilapidated structures nearby. For someone who had often roamed around U-Belt back in college, I have always wondered about this structure. I was lucky to have gotten access to this place and appreciate this preserved heritage of old Manila in Sampaloc.

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The story behind this building began in 1905, (some sources however say it’s 1907) when industrialist and philanthropist Teodoro Yangco and a group of women’s rights advocates (included among them would be the founder of Centro Escolar University, Librada Avelino) founded the La Proteccion de la Infancia, Inc., (LPI) considered to be the first and oldest non-sectarian charity organization in the country. Its aim was to look after the welfare of children at a time when child mortality, malnutrition, and other diseases were on alarmingly high rate. LPI decided to embark on a milk-feeding program for the children, as well as helping out their mothers as well.

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With its widening operations and expansion over the years, there came a need to move from its original home in Evangelista Street in Quiapo. Yangco donated a parcel of his land along Lepanto Street up in Sampaloc. The construction of its new office fell onto the hands of 2 architects, Arcadio Arellano and his younger brother Juan, who was fresh out of his architectural education in the US. The project one of the first ones the brothers would collaborrate on for the next 3 years. For Juan, this would be one of the first architectural projects he would take, as he would go to build more iconic landmarks ahead like the Post Office Building and the Metropolitan Theater, to name a few.

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